Info & FAQ
Get informed about RAW Pet Food
Supplements & Best Practices
Useful Guides and Product informational PDF’s
Frequently Asked Questions
Feeding raw food is about building a nutritional frame work that your animals won’t just live on, but will thrive on! When we look at the health of any animal we need to start with the foundations, a healthy nutritional platform gives your animal a healthy, long-life, and ultimately brings them much happiness.
You may have heard the term coined B.A.R.F. in reference to raw dog/cat food. There are two meaning to this acronym; the first being, Bones And Raw Food, while the second is Biologically Appropriate Raw Food. Both of these statements are what we like to promote as a “species appropriate diet”, or stated another way – feeding dogs and cats nutritious meals that are as close as we can come to what they would naturally be eating in the wild.
Many people believe that Kibble is perfectly nutritionally balanced, and while it is true that there may be the right amount of vitamins and minerals in it, kibble is not a form of food that is anywhere close to what dogs and cats would naturally be eating in the wild. Kibble can actually be harmful to your dog in more ways than one, it lowers the acidity level of the mouth and gut, thus exposing your dog to harmful pathogens that make us (and them) sick. The acidity level, or pH level of dogs and cats vary greatly from humans, this is part of the reason why they can eat raw meat and we can’t.
They also have very short intestines (in comparison to humans) and this enables them to eat a diet almost exclusively made up of meat. Putting grains and other legumes into their kibble does nothing but inflame the gut track, and have only been popular additions to the diets of dogs and cats since the 1950’s; therefore, not giving their bodies time to evolve enough to process them.
Raw food is easy for the dogs and cats to digest; it gives them all the nutrients they need. When a body it not “fighting” to absorb as much as possible from a deficient diet, it can focus its energy to heal, grow, and fight off small infections or irritations that may otherwise show up as hotspots or weepy eyes.
We have seen dogs go from barely surviving, to thriving on a raw food diet!
An average dog should be eating 2.5% – 4% of their body weight, whereas active dogs can eat between 4% – 6% of their body weight. Puppies can eat up to 10% of their body weight, depending on breed.For Example:
LARGE DOGS: An 8 year old, 80lb German Shepherd with lower energy can be fed up to 1 ½lbs of a food split into two meals per day. This includes meaty necks, bones, treats and his food.
COST: For a “ruff” look at 7 days you would be feeding about 10.5 lbs of food which would average out to $43.89/week depending on the blends you choose to feed.
MEDIUM DOGS: A 50lb, 2 year old Boxer with high energy can be fed up to 1lb of food split into two meals per day. You may also feed meaty necks/bones as a snack throughout the day on top of his regular meal to suffice for his high metabolism
COST: For a “ruff” look at 7 days you would be feeding about 7lbs of food which would average out to about $29.26/week depending on the blends you choose to feed.
SMALL DOGS: A 10Lb, 12 year old Chihuahua who only goes on a 15min walk per day would eat about ¼ of a pound split into 2 meals per day.
COST: For a “ruff” look at 7 days you would be feeding about 1.75 lbs of food which would average to about $7.32/week depending on the blends you choose to feed.
- INCREASE for active and growing dogs.
- DECREASE for non active and senior dogs.
- USE your judgment, YOU know YOUR dog best!
- Puppies, Lactating Mothers, and Dietary needs require special diet, PLEASE ADVISE.
- 1lb = 2cups; 1/2lb = 1 cup; 1/4lb = 4oz
An average cat should be eating 2% – 3% of their body weight, whereas active cats can eat between 4% – 6% of their body weight. Kittens can eat up to 8% of their body weight, depending on breed. Unlike dogs, cats are self-regulating. Your cat will know when it is full! Give your cat its food, allow 15minutes to eat, and then refrigerate the rest until the next feeding. Adult cats can be fed twice a day and kittens may be fed 2 – 3 times a day (depending on the kitten.)
A 1 – 5 lbs. cat can be fed UP TO 1.6 oz. of raw food a day (1 tbsp. which is a little less than HALF of our quarter cuts.).
A 6 – 10 lbs. cat can be fed UP TO 3.2 oz. of raw food a day (2 tbsp. which is a little less than ONE of our quarter cuts.).
A 11 – 16 lbs. cat can be fed up to 4.8 oz. of raw food a day (3.5 tbsp. which is just over ONE of our quarter cuts.).
*ONE of our quarter cuts = 4oz. (approx.) You can buy our cat food in individual 4oz. packaging or in a 5lb bag of “quarter pound cuts”.
- INCREASE for active and growing cats.
- DECREASE for non-active and senior cats.
- USE your judgement, YOU know YOUR cat best!
- Kittens, Lactating Mothers and Dietary needs require special diet, PLEASE ADVISE
Yes. Food stored constantly at 0 °F will always be safe. Only the quality suffers with lengthy freezer storage. Freezing food slows down the movement of molecules, causing microbes to enter a dormant stage which in turn keeps the food safe from spoilage. By freezing food, you are preserving it for an extended period because it prevents the growth of any microorganisms which can cause food spoilage as well as food borne illness.
Does Freezing Destroy Bacteria & Parasites?
No, not necessarily. Freezing to 0 °F inactivates any microbes that may be present in food but does not necessarily destroy them. Once thawed, however, these microbes can again become active again and may multiply under the right conditions which can lead to food borne illness. Since they will then grow at about the same rate as on fresh food, you must handle thawed items as you would any perishable food.
*ALWAYS handle your pets’ raw food with FOOD SAFE in mind. Please treat it as you would your own meats and veggies.*
Freshness & Quality
Freshness and quality at the time of freezing affect the condition of frozen foods. If frozen at peak quality, thawed foods emerge tasting better than foods frozen near the end of their useful life.
*Buddies always freeze at peak quality time to preserve the freshness and quality of your pets’ food.*
The freezing process itself does not destroy nutrients. In meat and poultry products, there is little change in nutrient value during freezer storage.
Enzyme activity can lead to the deterioration of food quality. Enzymes present in animals, vegetables, and fruit promote chemical reactions before and after harvest, such as ripening. Freezing only slows the enzyme activity that takes place in foods. It does not halt them.
Proper packaging helps maintain quality and prevent freezer burn. It is safe to freeze meat or poultry directly in its original packaging, however this type of wrap is permeable to air and quality may diminish over time. For prolonged storage, overwrap these packages as you would any food for long-term storage. It is not necessary to rinse meat and poultry. Freeze unopened vacuum packages as is.
*If you notice that a package has accidentally been torn or has opened while food is in the freezer, the food is still safe to use; merely overwrap or rewrap it.*
Freezer burn does not make food unsafe, merely dry in spots. It appears as grayish-brown leathery spots and is caused by air coming in contact with the surface of the food. Cut freezer-burned portions away before feeding to your pet. Heavily freezer-burned foods may have to be discarded for quality reasons.
Color changes can occur in frozen foods. The bright red color of meat as purchased usually turns dark or pale brown depending on its variety. This may be due to lack of oxygen, freezer burn or abnormally long storage.
Freeze food as fast as possible to maintain its quality. Rapid freezing prevents undesirable large ice crystals from forming throughout the product because the molecules don’t have time to form into the characteristic six-sided snowflake. Slow freezing creates large, disruptive ice crystals. During thawing, they damage the cells and dissolve emulsions. This causes meat to “drip” and lose juiciness.
*Buddies uses their -25 °C Blast Freezer to rapidly freeze all products to ensure freshness and quality.*
Freezer Storage Time
Because freezing keeps food safe almost indefinitely, recommended storage times are for quality only. Always check for quality once thawed. First check the odor. Some foods will develop a rancid or off odor when frozen too long and should be discarded. Some may not look picture perfect or be of high enough quality to serve alone but may still be edible.
*Buddies will always stamp our products with a manufactured date before shipping out. This is to show the date the product was manufactured – not to be confused with an expiry date.*
Never thaw foods on any counter top or outside. There are three safe ways to thaw food: in the refrigerator, in cold water, or in the microwave. It’s best to plan ahead for slow, safe thawing in the refrigerator. Small items may defrost overnight; approximately one day for each 5 pounds of weight. For faster thawing, place food in a leak proof plastic bag and immerse it in cold water. (If the bag leaks, bacteria from the air or surrounding environment could be introduced into the food. Tissues can also
absorb water like a sponge, resulting in a watery product.) Check the water frequently to be sure it stays cold. Change the water every 30 minutes.
*Only use microwave defrost if you know how to use it properly. Microwaving can cook product. Buddies does not recommend using microwaves.*
Once food is thawed in the refrigerator, it is safe to refreeze it without cooking, although there may be a loss of quality due to the moisture lost through thawing. Freeze leftovers within 3-4 days. Do not refreeze any foods left outside the refrigerator longer than 2 hours; 1 hour in temperatures above 90 °F.
FREEZER STORAGE CHART (0 °F)
*Note: Freezer storage is for quality only. Frozen foods remain safe indefinitely.*
ITEM MONTHS Gravy, meat or poultry 2 to 3 Meat, uncooked ground 3 to 4 Poultry, uncooked whole 12 Poultry, uncooked parts 9 Poultry, uncooked giblets 3 to 4 Wild game, uncooked 8 to 12
There is more to raw feeding than scooping a bowlful from a bag, but it is easy to learn. Raw feeding is a formula. There are many styles of raw feeding and you will find out the best style for you and your household. It can be very convenient and easy (all commercially prepared and measured) or you may find you get quite involved in sourcing the best and coolest food for your dog (butcher shops, abattoirs, friend’s freezers…). Raw feeding becomes second nature as you see the benefits for your pet carnivore. Be sure to do some research and talk to the raw feeding experts at Buddie’s Natural Pet Food to get you started.
Just like your food bill, you can spend a little or a lot on fresh food for your pets. Generally, the more convenient the food is to serve, the more expensive it might be. If you are willing to do more work the more money you can save. Shop the sales, plan ahead, get a deep freeze; all the same things you’d do to save money on your own food.
Remember that you are already spending a certain amount of dog food, so you only need think about how much extra raw feeding might be. Some people find that raw is less expensive than high end kibble in the long run. And let’s not forget that you will likely spend less money on trips to the vet for skin, ear, teeth cleaning, and digestive problems. The benefits will pay for themselves. If you have a budget, the crew at Buddies can help you stick to it and help you get a balanced menu ready.
What you have there is a dog, Ma’am. No matter the size, your dog is a carnivore. You may need to adjust the size of the whole bones you feed, but your little dog will appreciate being treated like the real dog she is.
You can cook boneless products, but never cook any bone-in dog or cat food. Cooked meat is actually harder for your carnivore to digest than raw meat and bones. Dogs and cats don’t have the digestive system to break down cooked meat like we do. If your pet is refusing to eat, try getting creative. It is safe to skip a meal. Just put it in the fridge and let your dog get hungry. Sometimes dogs don’t recognize fresh food as food, put some in his mouth to taste (nicely, let’s not traumatize her!). You can mix into the raw food any of these: Tuna juice, salmon juice, green tripe, ground dried liver treats, a favourite canned food, a tiny amount of crushed cat kibble (tiny!). If your dog begs at the table pretend you’re eating the new food and let your dog “clean the plate”. Borrow another dog, competition can increase appetite quickly. You can also try warming the food up by putting it into a plastic zip bag and setting the bag in hot water (no microwaving!)
You will need to use the same common sense with your dog’s raw meat as you do your own. Use proper hygienic techniques; clean your dog bowls and any surfaces the dog’s food may have touched. Your dog’s muzzle can be wiped down with a cloth that has been soaked in a 10% vinegar solution after she eats. A dog’s saliva does have some anti-bacterial properties, so just keeping your tot away from the dog for a half hour or so should do the trick. And your child shouldn’t be grabbing your dog’s mouth anyway, that’s how bites happen.
Remember that most commercial kibbles contain salmonella and should also be kept safe from toddlers mouths…
Raw Pet Food Feeding Estimates
Based on Animal Weight and Activeness
Use discretion based on your own animal’s breed, weight, age, and activity level.
Information & Supplements
Omega Nutrition. Certified Organic.
No chemical, additives or preservatives.
Unpasteurized to preserve its nutritional value.
Contains pectins, beneficial bacteria and enzymes.
Contains “Mother” which is formed naturally by the bacteria in unpasteurized vinegar.
WHAT IS APPLE CIDER VINEGAR?
As a pet care product, apple cider vinegar (ACV) is hard to beat for its versatility, availability and cost. Apple Cider vinegar is rich in the vitamins, minerals, and trace elements found in apples, especially potassium; it normalizes acid levels in the stomach, improves digestion, reduces intestinal gas and fecal odors, helps with constipation, and helps prevent bladder stones and urinary tract infections.
Always use the unfiltered, organic ACV that has not been pasteurized for best results. ACV should not be fed to a pet that is sensitive or allergic to yeast. In these cases it is believed that vinegar can feed or exacerbate the problem. Here are some of the more common benefits you can derive by using apple cider vinegar as a natural product for both cats and dogs:
- It can be used as a daily health supplement.
- As an ear care product.
- It can be used to obtain relief for various skin problems.
- Use it for skunk odor removal.
The minerals, enzymes and acids in unpasteurized apple cider vinegar can supplement your pets existing diet. It can be added directly to the dogs’ food. Many holistic vets commend a daily dosage of:
1tsp (5ml) for cats and small dogs (up to 14lbs)
2tsp (10ml) for medium dogs (15 – 34lbs)
1tbsp (15ml) for large dogs (35 – 84lbs)
Hot spots, eczema, skin allergies: Put 1 part ACV to 3 parts water in a spritz bottle, part the hair and spray liberally to affected areas.
Digestive disorders: Mix suggested dosage to your pet’s food. Ingesting this remedy will help balance the acid/alkaline ratio of the digestive tract, prevent intestinal gas, and constipation.
Note: Do not feed ACV to dogs that have irritation of the intestinal tract lining.
Ear health: ACV can be used to maintain good ear health, but should never be used on any open or irritated skin – as it will sting. Place a couple of drops of AVC inside the ears then gently wipe out until clean, this will help to prevent infections and maintain ear health and cleanliness.
If your dog is on insulin or diuretics do not add ACV to his/her diet without consulting your veterinarian as there could be an interaction between the insulin/drugs and the ACV.
Cat grass is actually organically grown wheatgrass. It is human-grade and is safe for all pets. Wheatgrass may be juiced and added to your pets’ meal or your pet may eat it as it is grown.
Ingredients: Coco peat, Peat Moss, Worm Castings, Kelp Meal, Neem Meal, Alfalfa Meal, Diatomaceous Earth – All organic ingredients. This product was grown under indoor lights.
How to care for: Water when dry and keep in full sun. Wheatgrass grows fast so keep in an area where pets can eat it frequently or trim the grass yourself.
- Nutritionally complete food
- Studies by scientists have shown it to never be toxic in animals or humans
- Gives energy & stamina
- Reverses illness
- Protection of toxins- including aging and combats free radicals
- Rejuvenates blood
- Help’s shed pounds by detoxifying the body
- DNA repair
- Blood cleansing and building abilities of chlorophyll
- Builds blood and stimulates circulation
- Stimulates and regenerates the liver
- Deodorizes body
Colloidal Silver stops the growth of one-celled organisms dead in their tracks! Bacteria and viruses are completely deactivated through the organism’s oxygen metabolism enzymes being surrounded with the Colloidal Silver molecular field which destroys its’ cell membranes, stopping the replication of its’ DNA.
IMPORTANT: Keep in a dark place. Use only glass, no metal, no plastic. This includes a syringe or plastic spray bottle. The silver will adhere to any material that is not glass, causing it to neutralize the water, and not work. For serving, pour from the jar into a glass eyedropper, a glass measuring cup, or into just a glass.
WHAT IS COLLOIDAL SILVER?
A colloid is a particle of some substance, broken down and mixed into or suspended in liquid. Colloidal silver is mostly microscopic bits of silver floating in water. Colloidal Silver can be used for treating over 650 viral and bacterial organisms. It narrows in on the bad and removes viruses, bacteria and fungi without damaging the surrounding healthy cells. Colloidal Silver stops the growth of one-celled organisms causing them to no longer be able to reproduce.
IS IT SAFE FOR PETS?
Yes! It is an extremely safe antibiotic for dogs as well as cats (even humans!!) and can be used internally and externally. It has no side effects, is virtually tasteless, odorless, affordable, non- toxic and very easy to administer to your pet. Colloidal Silver is a great product for its affordability as well as how versatile it is! It can be used as a disease preventative, help with injuries and illness, a way to treat infection and so much more.
- Supports immune health.
- Made from 99.99% pure silver.
- Made with ultra-pure, medical-grade water (the only other ingredient)
- Safe low concentration of 10ppm (parts-per-million)
- 96% actively charged particles
Crystal clear and virtually tasteless Ways Colloidal Silver can be Used:
Bedding: Keep your pet’s bed clean and free of bacteria and parasites by regularly spraying the bedding down with undiluted colloidal silver and allow it to air dry.
Food Preservation: Preserve any containers of opened pet food in the refrigerator and make it last a few days longer by adding a few drops of colloidal silver to it.
Teeth: Along with feeding your pet raw meaty necks and bones, Colloidal silver can be applied straight into a pet’s mouth to help remove the bacteria, heal oral tissues, and keep the gums and teeth clean.
Water Bowl: One or two tablespoons of colloidal silver in your pet’s glass water dish will keep his immune system strong and help prevent disease so you can have a healthy pet for years to come.
Wounds: If your pet is injured or hurt, spray or dab colloidal silver on the wound as soon as possible after the wounding and bandage it until it heals.
Puppies and Kittens Mange: Nasty and painful, commonly seen in rescued animal. Spray the affected areas of the animal twice daily with Colloidal Silver. This will stop the itching pain immediately and start the healing process. The animal should be given Omega 3 capsules or salmon oil/cod liver oil. This will work the quickest. The oil will put back and help to rebuild the natural balance of oils in the skin.
1 Year Plus Cataracts: 1 dropper of Colloidal Silver in each affected eye, twice daily for 2 weeks or longer. The cataract will start to fade in color and treatments can stop once you can no longer see a cataract.
Cuts, Gashes, or Skin Tears: Soak a gauze pad with Colloidal Silver, tape, or secure to the affected area. Change bandage daily until healing is obvious. Continued use of the Colloidal will minimize scarring. Applying honey will also help the healing process.
Cysts: It’s always a good idea to have your Vet remove one to be tested for cancer. Assuming all is well, spray each cyst with Colloidal Silver, it will eventually turn black, burst, and look like dried blood. Once it is dry, comb out of fur.
Ears/Hearing Loss: This can occur at any age for a variety of reasons. Use 1 dropper of Colloidal Sliver in each ear twice daily, you will notice a hearing improvement begin after 10 days. Try whistling or yelling your pets’ name; the head should turn towards you immediately and that’s your first sign of healing.
Ear Infections: Use one dropper of Colloidal Silver once in the morning and once at night. Increase dosage if necessary. It will take about a week – 10 days to cure. If the infection is inner ear it can take 2-3 weeks to cure. The Colloidal Silver will immediately relieve any itching or burning sensations.
Eye Infections: A few squirts of colloidal silver works as a good eyewash for dogs and cats with eye infections. Using colloidal silver gives that extra antibiotic protection.
Stomach or Digestive Problems: 1 teaspoon of Colloidal Silver, morning and night until the problem stops. Tilt the head back, open the mouth and drop it in. You may want to change the diet and the problem may be food-related.
Teeth: Inflamed gums and or excessive plaque. Brush the teeth once daily with Colloidal Silver. That will rid the animal of any gum disease and that nasty bacterium that causes plaque. Buy a new toothbrush; dip it in the Colloidal and brush. Do not use tap water, shake brush out when done, and let dry for next time. Brush teeth at least 2 hours before feeding.
Worms & Parasites: It is believed that colloidal silver can work to kill all the worms that thrive in a dog or cats body. Colloidal silver works in a simple manner; it kills the parasites inside the body by destroying the enzymes that metabolize oxygen in the parasites’ bodies. Once the enzymes are destroyed, the worms are deprived of oxygen, suffocate, and soon die. It can be used internally as well as externally. PLEASE NOTE: Colloidal silver can eliminate the worms through normal means, but the treatment’s effectiveness depends largely on how severe the condition is in your dog or cat. If the worm infestation is too severe, additional treatments should also be considered aside from just the silver. It is best to make sure your animal has access to plenty of water at all times. The water can help your pet feel better and can help them to eliminate the worms more easily.
A significant source of Silica-Bones, Body Balance, A Catalyst, Remineralisation… The perma-Guard White Earth or Fossil Shell Flour is pure Fresh Water Diatomaceous Earth. It is of the highest quality.
Dogs: small 1/2 tsp per day, 10-3o lbs 1 tsp, 30-50lbs 1 tbsp, over 100 lbs – 2 tbsp.
Cats: 1/2 tsp – 1 tsp per day Kittens : 1/2 per day .
Can be mixed directly into the food and it is known to be affective in the elimination of pests, worms and toxins.
WHAT IS IT:
Diatomaceous earth is a remarkable, all-natural product made from tiny fossilized water plants. DE is a naturally occurring siliceous sedimentary mineral compound from microscopic skeletal remains of unicellular algae-like plants called diatoms. These plants have been part of the earth’s ecology since prehistoric times.
It is believed that 30 million years ago, the diatoms built up into deep, chalky deposits of diatomite. The diatoms are mined and ground up to render a powder that looks and feels like talcum powder to us. It is a mineral based pesticide.
DE is approximately 3% magnesium, 84% silica, 5% sodium, 2% iron and many other trace minerals such as calcium, titanium, boron, manganese, copper and zirconium. DE is a natural (not calcined or flux calcined) compound. DE is a natural grade diatomite.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS:
– Acts as a natural de-wormer when fed orally to pets.
– Removes fleas when rubbed onto your pets fur or sprinkled onto their bed.
– Helps with hair and nail growth.
– Reduces odors in kitty litter and pet carriers.
– Helps with regular bowel movements.
– Is known to increase energy.
HOW DOES IT WORK:
Diatomaceous earth is almost as hard as a diamond (Hardness scale: Diamonds are rated a 9 and DE is rated a 7). This is very important because as those millions of tiny, hard and sharp DE cylinders pass through the small and large intestines, they ‘scrub’ the walls, cutting up and killing any larger parasites such as tapeworms. All of these activities result in a healthier body with a boosted immune system due to the ability to better absorb nutrients, leaving your pet feeling healthier all around.
– 10 – 30lb: 1tsp. per day
– 30 – 50lb: 1tbsp. per day
– 50 – 100lb dog: 1 – 1½ tbsp. per day
– 100lb+ – 2tbsp.
– ½ tsp – 1 tsp per day
– ½ tsp per day
Diatomaceous earth is a supplement that does NOT need to be given every single day. Do not use it continuously on small cats, small dogs, kittens or puppies. For deworming and flea control, use it for 30 days straight, 1-2 times a year. Make sure to watch your pets water intake as feeding DE will increase water flow through the body up to 30%.
Make sure to use only food grade DE as other forms can be toxic to you and your pets.
Fish oil is probably the most important supplement you can add to your pets’ diet, regardless of what type of diet you feed. EPA and DHA, the omega-3 fatty acids in fish oil, provide widespread benefits. Krill oil and whole fish also provide EPA and DHA that may be better absorbed, providing similar benefits in smaller doses.
WHY SUPPLEMENT WITH FISH OILS?
Fish oil is probably the most important supplement you can add to your pet’s diet regardless of what type of diet you feed. EPA and DHA – the omega-3 fatty acids in fish oil – provide widespread benefits. Feeding whole fish also provides EPA and DHA that may be better absorbed, providing similar benefits in smaller doses.
- Improved coat and skin
- Reduces inflammation in arthritis, allergies and inflammatory bowel disease
- Boosts immune system and calms overactive immune systems for pets with allergies or autoimmune diseases
- Helps with mental development in fetuses and puppies/kittens
- Improves cognitive function in older pets
- Lowers blood pressure
- Helps with kidney disease, heart disease and cancer
- Helps with weight loss
Use products made for either humans or pets. The amount of EPA and DHA in various fish oil preparations varies. Look for concentrated forms when giving high doses so you use smaller amounts of oil. Healthy pets can be given 100-150 mg per 10lbs of body weight daily. Pets that have health problems can be given up to 300 mg per 10lbs of body weight. One ounce of canned fish with bones (sardines, jack mackerel and pink salmon) averages about 300mg of EPA and DHA combined.
**STORE LIQUID FISH OIL IN DARK BOTTLES AND REFRIGERATE**
THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN:
- Improves coat and skin
- Helps with bone development in young pets and keeps bones/teeth strong and healthy for older pets
- Improves brain function
- Helps arthritis and contains anti-inflammatory properties
- Keeps the hearth healthy and keeps the arteries free from cholesterol buildup
- Regulates the body’s metabolism
- Contains more EPA and DHA than salmon oil and has naturally lower levels of environmental contaminants
- Improves coat and skin
- Helps with bone development in young pets and keeps bones/teeth strong and healthy for older pets
- Improves brain function
- Small, immature species with short lifespan gives them less time to absorb toxins
- Least amount of heavy metal build-ups compared to other fish foods
- Contains Lysine which aids in repairing soft tissue damage caused by infection or disease
- Supports healthy function of organs and systems in the body
- Contains Coenzyme Q10
- Improves coat and skin
- Helps with healthy joints and a sound cardiovascular system
- DHA has been known to help with the nervous system, eyesight and maintaining good fertility
- Natural source of Omega 3 fatty acids EPA and DHA
- Very affordable compared to other types of fish oils
Glucosamine is a compound found naturally in the body, made from glucose and the amino acid glutamine. Glucosamine is needed to produce glycosaminoglycan, a molecule used in the formation and repair of cartilage and other body tissues. As we age, though, the production of glucosamine is slowed down.
WHAT IS GLUCOSAMINE?
Glucosamine is a compound found naturally in the body, made from glucose and the amino acid glutamine. Glucosamine is needed to produce glycosaminoglycan, a molecule used in the formation and repair of cartilage and other body tissues. As we age, though, the production of glucosamine is slowed down.
WHY SHOULD I SUPPLEMENT WITH GLUCOSAMINE? WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS?
Supplementing with glucosamine helps the body make collagen and proteoglycans which are important in making a rebuilding the joints as well as supporting the synovial fluids which is what lubricates their joints. Glucosamine is a great product to use on older pets that have joint or muscle pains, any pets with an injury, or to reduce inflammation in joints and muscles.
WHAT TYPE OF GLUCOSAMINE IS BEST?
Glucosamine is available in two forms; a powder form and a pill form. Depending on your preference and what is easy for you to feed to your four legged friend, it usually doesn’t make a huge difference what way you buy it. Powder form normally the best way as you can sprinkle it onto their food and it will virtually taste no difference to the animal. There are different types of Glucosamine to be aware of though. Finding pure glucosamine is nearly impossible as it breaks down rapidly when it is exposed to moisture or air. To avoid this, glucosamine needs to be bound with a stabilizer in order for it to be sold commercially. The sulfate and the HCL forms are the most common way of doing this. Unfortunately, companies have started replacing 30% of the glucosamine with table salt in order to keep costs down (so that they can sell it to us at a cheaper rate). But this isn’t making it any cheaper for the consumer nor is it solving the problem. Always look into a product BEFORE purchasing, read the ingredients and compare! If a product seems “too good to be true for THAT price” then it usually is.
HOW MUCH DO I FEED?
When feeding glucosamine there are a lot of factors to consider when trying to figure out how much exactly you should feed – much like our raw diet! Every pet is so different and has very different needs. You will never find an identical animal! A good rule of thumb for feeding glucosamine is to always go by the body weight. For every 25lbs the pet will need 500mg. Usually once you have started using glucosamine that is a sign that body has either stopped producing it or is unable to produce and store it. Pets generally need to be on glucosamine for the rest of their lives, because cartilage degeneration can recur within months of stopping the supplement. Glucosamine is known to be a supplement you cannot overdose with so do not be alarmed if you find you have been feeding too much (or not enough). Finding the right balance may take a bit of time. Take to your Vet to discuss how much you should be feeding and how often.
DO I NEED TO SUPPLEMENT WITH GLUCOSAMINE IF I FEED A RAW DIET?
The simple and short answer is no. IF you are feeding a raw balanced diet with bone-in meat, organs and some veggies tossed in then generally speaking you will not have to supplement with glucosamine. There are many naturally occurring and reliable sources of glucosamine in the connective tissue and bone marrow of animals – and in shellfish exoskeletons. Although there are still things that happen in life that we have no control over (such as injuries or aging or genetics) that will pay a toll on your pets body where glucosamine may be needed to supplement with. Feeding raw will still help with the recovery of the body and be adding glucosamine as it is but please check with your vet to make sure it is sufficient enough for your pet.
The best way to help any pet that may suffer from EPI or lacking in digestive enzymes. The pancreas is a “silent,” solid organ positioned behind the stomach in the upper part of the abdomen. The body’s main digestive organ, the pancreas, is composed of different cells that serve distinct functions. Some cells produce digestive “juices” or enzymes, while the others produce hormones. The pancreatic enzymes break down the three types of nutritional elements: protease digests proteins; lipase digests fat; and amylase digests carbohydrates.
WHAT IS IT?
The pancreas is a “silent,” solid organ positioned behind the stomach in the upper part of the abdomen. The body’s main digestive organ, the pancreas, is composed of different cells that serve distinct functions. Some cells produce digestive “juices” or enzymes, while the others produce hormones. The pancreatic enzymes break down the three types of nutritional elements: protease digests proteins; lipase digests fat; and amylase digests carbohydrates.
Once manufactured, the digestive enzymes empty into channels (ducts), eventually draining into the first part of the small intestine, called the duodenum. Food that passes through the duodenum stimulates the pancreas to produce more digestive enzymes.
The most important hormone the pancreas produces is insulin, which controls the amount of glucose in our bloodstream. When an insufficient amount of insulin is secreted, the body’s cells are unable to take in glucose, which raises glucose levels in the bloodstream and may ultimately lead to diabetes (though it is not the principal cause of diabetes). In addition to insulin, the pancreas makes other hormones, all of which pass into the blood that flows through the organ (not through the ducts used by the enzymes).
WHO CAN BENEFIT FROM IT?
If your dog has been diagnosed with exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI) fresh pancreas is your new best friend. Fresh pancreas will provide the enzymes lacking in your dog’s system. Feeding pancreas is not necessary to prevent EPI as the disease in usually genetically inherited.
Pancreatitis is different and responds well to a balanced raw diet with low to no carbohydrates and raw fats only. Pancreatitis does not require raw pancreas.
An interesting note if you are having your dog tested for pancreatitis, the test used measures the available enzymes in the blood. This test will show elevated pancreatic enzymes in raw fed dogs and the vet may diagnose pancreatitis when it doesn’t exist.
How Much Do You Feed?
1 – 3oz of raw pancreas is equivalent to 1 tsp of pancreatic extract. Usually your vet will recommend about 1tsp of powdered enzymes per cup of food (1cup kibble = 1/2lb raw food).
3 – 4oz of raw pancreas per 40lbs of the dog’s weight is the recommended amount to feed.
The amount of pancreas needed for each pet varies. If they suffer from EPI, your vet will let you know how much pancreas you will need to supplement with. Once your pet is starting to absorb the proper digestive enzymes and you start to see a change, your vet will usually recommend lowering the amount you will need to feed. Keep in mind that once your pet has suffered from EPI they will most likely always need to have a digestive enzyme with all food they are fed for the rest of their life.
HOW DO I FEED PANCREAS?
Finding the best way to feed pancreas to your pet will take time. If your pet suffers from EPI, it will take a lot of trial and error to find the best diet for him/her. Most EPI pets thrive on a low-fat, grain free raw diet best with little to no carbohydrates or bones. Fatty foods with high levels of carbs and bones are very challenging for a pet with EPI to digest. We do not suggest taking all bones, fat and carbs out of the diet but be mindful of the amount you feed. Work with your vet, local pet store and other pet owners that have EPI to figure out what works best for your pet.
When feeding your pet it is best to feed 3 or 4 small meals throughout the day rather than one or two big feedings a day. Feeding smaller, more frequent meals throughout the day will be easier for your pet to digest the food properly and absorb the proper digestive enzymes.
If you are feeding a raw food diet, mixing raw pancreas in with his/her meal or feeding the pancreas separate all together is completely fine. It does not make a difference if you are to mix it in with their raw food or leave it separate. Be sure that both their food and pancreas is thawed and at room temperature when feeding as it can upset their tummies if fed too hot or too cold.
If you feed a kibble based diet, be sure to keep the kibble and raw pancreas completely separate when feeding. Kibble can take up to 12hrs for your pet to digest whereas raw unadulterated food only takes 3 – 4hrs to digest. It is recommended to feed the raw pancreas throughout the day and then feed the kibble at night so that your pet has the entire night to digest the kibble by the time the morning feeding comes.
If you plan on feeding pancreas in the powdered supplement form it will have to be incubated before feeding it to your pet. Make sure to mix the proper amount in water and then mix in with either their raw or kibble food (whichever works best for your pet). Once it is mixed in with the food let it sit at room temperature for about 20min before feeding.
RICH IN VITAMINS, ESPECIALLY B-VITAMIN & ANTIOXIDANTS
ENZYMES, PRO-BIOTICS, MINERALS & MINERALS & TRACE MINERALS
A blend of herbs, algae, sea vegetables and a digestive formula to enhance well-being. This formula is rich in vitamins, minerals and trace minerals.
Minerals & Trace minerals – keep the body ph balance * essential to bone formation * for digestion of food * regulate the osmosis of cellular fluids * electrical activity in the nervous system* metobolic functions * transport oxygen through the system * govern heart rhythm * healthy teeth and gums * principle factor in mental and emotional balance.
Super Green Foods are a group of herbs, algae and sea vegetables containing high amount of nutrients. Algae one of many super green foods (phyto-plankton) are considered a perfect food because it is highly rich in : Digestible protein * fibre * chlorophyll * vitamins * minerals * enzymes. They have the most potent source of * beta-carotene available in the world today, and the richest food sources of B12 & GLA (gamma-linolenic acis), essential fatty acids. For optimal health it is essential to have strong digestion in order to have a healthy immune system.
Digestion this blend also contains a digestive enzyme and pro-biotics powder, which aids in healthy digestion and strong immune system a key to wellness. Suitable for all animal friends, and humans as well.
Formulated by Certified Nutrition Consultant Carola Schleuss
The super food blend is a blend of herbs, algae, sea vegetables and is a digestive formula to enhance over all well-being. It may be used as an everyday supplement & is 100% human-grade (consumable for humans). It can also act the same as Tripe when used as a supplement (aka you may use this Super Food Blend to supplement for tripe, vice versa, or supplement with both).
Barley Grass Powder, Comfrey, Dandelion Leaf, Nettle Leaf, Forco (digestive enzyme and probiotics), Kelp powder, Spirulina
½ tsp – 1 tsp per day for cats ½ to 1 tbsp per 1 lb of raw dog food per day
MINERALS, VITAMINS & PROBIOTICS:
These are known to be very important in our diet. They work in tandem with other nutrients to support healthy cells and overall well-being.
MINERALS & TRACE MINERALS:
Balance of pH, bone formation, digestion, regulates the osmosis of cellular fluids, nervous system, metabolic functions, oxygen, heart rhythm, teeth & gum health, principle factor in mental and emotional balance.
Antioxidants which are good for: eyes, skin, hair/fur, immune system, mind, nervous system, gum health, wound healing and hormonal balance (such as thyroid and adrenals).
Tripe is the stomach of ruminating animals. The food the animal eats is swallowed unchewed and passes into the rumen and reticulum where it is then regurgitated, chewed and mixed with saliva where it is then further broken down by the gastric juices, amino acids and other digestive enzymes. These same gastric juices and enzymes not only aid the animal in digestion, but also aid the dog in digesting and efficiently utilizing his food.
These animals (i.e. cattle, buffalo, sheep, deer, goats, antelope, etc.) are classified as being four-footed, hooved, cud chewing mammals with a stomach that consists of four chambers. The four chambers of such a stomach are known as the rumen, reticulum, omasum and the abomasum. The food the animal eats (i.e. grass, hay) is swallowed unchewed and passes into the rumen and reticulum where it is then regurgitated, chewed and mixed with saliva. It is again swallowed and then passed through the reticulum and omasum into the abomasum, where it is then further broken down by the gastric juices, amino acids and other digestive enzymes. Yummy!
So how is it that something so disgusting, can be so good? These same gastric juices and enzymes not only aid the animal in digestion, but also aid the dog in digesting and efficiently utilizing his food. The amino acids are necessary for muscular development and, the other gastric juices, I believe, are the best cleaner for their teeth!
In an analysis of a sample of green tripe by a Woodson-Tenant Lab in Atlanta, Georgia, it was discovered that the calcium to phosphorous ratio is 1:1, the overall pH is on the acidic side which is better for digestion, protein is 15.1, fat 11.7 and it contained the essential fatty acids, Linoleic and Linolenic, in their recommended proportions. Also discovered, was the presence of Lactic Acid Bacteria. Lactic Acid Bacteria, also known as Lactobacillus Acidophilus, is the good intestinal bacteria. It is the main ingredient in probiotics.
Finally, because of its rubbery texture, serving it in large chunks also aids the canine in strengthening it’s jaw muscles and has an added benefit as a form of canine dental floss.
The white tripe that you find in the grocery store has been cleaned, scalded and bleached. It has almost no nutritional value for the canine.
Green tripe does not necessarily refer to it’s color. In this instance it refers to the fact that it has not been touched – not cleaned, not bleached and not scalded. It’s actual color is brown, however, sometimes there will be a greenish tint due to the grass or hay the animal ate just before slaughtering.
Nothing beats the “green” tripe from a freshly slaughtered animal, but in an effort to make our lives easier, we now have available green tripe that has been ground, frozen and packaged in different size packs.
Due to the fermentation process and the way that the ruminant digests, the abomasum provides a food that is incredibly rich. Not only will it provide completely natural digestive enzymes to the dog but also vitamins, fatty acids and amino acids. The enzymes not only help digestion in the canine but are also said to have a substantial effect on the cleaning of your pup’s teeth. Tripe, boneless as it is, can be extremely helpful in maintaining a gorgeous set of white teeth in your dog. How wonderful is it to not have to get veterinary teeth cleaning under general anesthesia? Most raw fed dogs have never and will never have to go through such a process and tripe goes a long way towards making certain that fact remains true. Fatty acids are another benefit. All dogs need omega 3’s and omega 6’s in their diet – especially to maintain healthy skin and coat. The vitamins and amino acids are in large part what gives your dog energy and spunk – green tripe has those to spare. Many dog owners feed probiotics to their dogs to help with runny stools, upset tummies, and recovery and regeneration of good bacteria from depletion by prescribed antibiotics. Green tripe is an excellent source of probiotics due to the large numbers of helpful microorganisms contained within the digestive tract. Naturally occurring organisms are always preferable to man-made mixtures and nothing can be more natural than having them go straight from the source to the dog.
Green tripe is an incredibly gentle food. It is often the first thing that raw feeding breeders introduce puppies to – as young as 3-4 weeks old. Tripe is also indicated for dogs suffering from sensitive stomachs and maladies such as Irritable Bowel Syndrome and Inflammatory Bowel Disease. Used in conjunction with probiotics such as Fastrack, tripe can often ease the discomfort of dogs who are just not digesting their food well all without bombarding them with traditional medicines and chemicals.
Nature’s way of healing. Green tripe is also a spectacular food for dogs suffering from Chronic Renal Failure due to its low phosphorus levels and palatability. Many CRF dogs have been put on low or no protein diets and have, as a result, lost all interest in their food. It’s the odd dog that turns its nose up at a healthy serving of tripe and its perfect phosphorus/calcium ratio, mid-level protein levels and slightly acidic Ph makes it safe and effective for these dogs. Feeding a protein source such as tripe that is highly digestible is likely more beneficial to your CRF dog than the low protein, hard to digest prescription diets that so many turn to at this time.
-The Complete Herbal Book for the Dog, Juliette de Baracli Levy
-Give Your Dog A Bone, Dr. Ian Billinghurst
-The Holistic Guide For A Healthy Dog, Wendy Volhard & Kerry Brown, DVM
What is Vitamin C?
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble nutrient found in some foods. In the body, it acts as an antioxidant, helping to protect cells from the damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are compounds formed when our bodies convert the food we eat into energy. The body needs vitamin C to make collagen, a protein required to help wounds heal. In addition, vitamin C improves the absorption of iron from plant-based foods and helps the immune system work properly to protect the body from disease.
Do I need to supplement with Vitamin C?
For Humans, Vitamin C is essential for survival but strangely enough we are among the few animals that do not produce. Cats and Dogs, however, can produce Vitamin C in their body so people have never thought to need to supplement with it. But that’s not always the case. Researchers have found that when your pet is in high stress, going through gestation, lactation, growth, vaccinations, injuries, tail-docking or ear cropping, or illness. Emotional stress, whether caused by relocation, weaning, demanding training or also working a lot (very high energy, getting lots of exercise) can cause their bodies to deplete the amount of Vitamin C they produce.
What are the Benefits?
Just like with us, there is a huge variety of benefits to feeding Vitamin C to your furry companion. Here are a few main benefits:
- Resistance to disease
- Better recovery from injury
- Better recovery from illness
- Increases the blood levels that help the bodies antiviral and anticancer compound
- Increases the blood levels of antibodies.
- Reduces inflammation
- Helps with the recovery of joints and muscles
- Helps support bones, teeth, ligaments and joints
- Prevent urinary tract infections and kidney disease
- Helps with skin problems
How can I get Vitamin C?
Vitamin C is found in a variety of everyday fruits and vegetables your pet may already be consuming as well as numerous supplements and vitamins. If you are giving your pet an all-in-one supplement then there may already be Vitamin C in the supplement you are using. Most pet food stores will sell tablets or powder forms of Vitamin C as well though. Some fruits and veggies that contain Vitamin C are: Citrus fruits (such as oranges and grapefruit), red and green peppers, kiwifruit, broccoli, strawberries, cantaloupe, squash, potatoes and sweet potatoes, tomatoes and leafy greens to name a few. Buddies uses seasonal leafy greens, Yams, Alfalfa, Bok Choy, Celery, Zucchini (and squash when it is in season), as well green beans from time to time. Be sure to check with your vet before feeding any fruits or veggies to your furry friend. Some fruits and veggies are dangerous to your dog when fed in large doses or fed at all. Tomatoes, Oranges and Grapefruit are best not given to your companion but are okay in very tiny doses.
How much do I feed?
The best rule of thumb is 18milligrams of Vitamin C for every pound of body weight per day (ex: 25lb dog = 450milligrams/day) as that is how much their body will usually produce in a day. Be warned that feeding Vitamin C too much at one time can cause upset stomachs and diarrhea. It is best to split it up and feed it with 2 or 3 meals throughout the day. If your pet is consistently getting upset stomachs and diarrhea, you may be feeding too much Vitamin C in which case it is okay to cut down the amount of Vitamin C you are feeding.